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If you’re interested in learning how to install wood flooring in your new or existing home, the good news is that there is a special type of hardwood floor that is very easy to install. It’s called a “floating hardwood floor”, and it works just like it sounds - it “floats” over the top of a substrate with no gluing or nailing required to adhere it. Even better, floating hardwood floors can be installed over the top of an existing hardwood floor, meaning that there is no need to do demolition.

Before you begin to install wood flooring, you will need to make sure your subfloor or substrate is completely clean and level. A joint compound that is self-leveling can be used to remedy any leveling problems. You will also need to decide what direction you would like the planks of your hardwood floor to lay.

When installing hardwood floors using floating flooring, a tongue and groove construction is used to “lock” the planks together. However, you will also need a special flooring glue to apply between the planks in order to create permanent adherence. Don’t use too much glue, and try to wipe away any excess.

The first three rows of planks are the most important, and it is these rows that can often become skewed or not fit together tightly when you are learning how to install wood flooring, therefore creating problems with the rest of the rows of flooring. You will want to use clamps or straps to make these first three rows fit together tightly until the glue dries.

Around the walls, you will want to leave a little bit of a gap in your floor during the floor installation. This is because the floor needs to be able to expand and contract from summer to winter. The instructions you receive with your floor will tell you how much room to leave. The molding on your walls will end up covering this space, so it won’t be visible.

After the planks are laid and glued, the floor will need to set for a while (consult instructions to find out how long you will need to leave it.) Then, you will need to sand the floor and use a finish to completely seal it. Many people prefer to hire a specialist to perform this step.
Visit us for more information on installing hardwood flooring, refinishing wood floors and hardwood floor.

Hardwood floor scratches are inevitable. At some point, scratches will happen. If you have hardwood flooring, it’s important that you learn how to do simple scratch repairs yourself. However, before you start fixing any scratches, you’ll need to learn how to differentiate between scratches and gouges on your hardwood floor.

A scratch is typically a visible, but not deep, marking on your hardwood floor’s surface. Hardwood floor scratches can be caused by dragging furniture across the floor or by glass that has fallen and cut the surface of the floor. A gouge, however, is much deeper than a scratch. Think of a gouge as a “flesh wound” a hardwood floor could sustain.

Dealing with a scratch is much different than dealing with a. For instance, it’s useless to apply hardwood floor scratch remover on gouges.

You’ll need to be sure that you really are dealing with a scratch instead of a gouge before you can initiate any kind of scratch repair work. Between scratches and gouges, scratches on hardwood floors are much more common. It’s near impossible to keep hardwood floors from getting scratches.

Moving pieces of furniture across or dropping sharp objects like glass are not the only things that can cause scratches. You may be causing scratches on your hardwood floor when you sweep it with a broom with not-so-soft bristles or you wipe off spills using a hard piece of cloth.

Again, scratches are nearly impossible to avoid, so the best thing you can do is learn how to deal with the scratches, like learning how to do simple scratch repairs. It’s pretty simple; you don’t have to hire a professional to do it for you.

Follow these steps:

1. Using a fine steel wool or sandpaper, rough up the scratched area.

2. Rub the whole length of the scratch. Cover both margins.

3. Make sure to rub in the direction of the wood grain, or rub in a circular motion to avoid damaging the wood and floor finish too much.

3. Dampen a soft cloth with mineral spirits. Use the soft cloth to wipe off any wood and dust particles on the scratched area of the floor.

4. Let the solution dry up on the floor. Depending on how big the scratch is, the scratch removal solution and how much of it you use, drying time may take from several minutes up to a few hours.

5. Take a fine paintbrush, dip it in the finish originally used on the floor and brush it across the scratched area. Wipe with a soft cloth.

6. Be careful and gentle when you brush in the finish onto the scratch. Too much or too little and the area will look much different from the rest of the hardwood floor. Brush in just enough finish so that it looks almost the same as the rest.

7. Give the new finish some time to dry. This may take between 30 minutes to a few hours.

If you followed the directions carefully, the scratch on your hardwood floor should be gone.

Linoleum or Vinyl Flooring as it is called today has seen some major improvements over the years and has become one of the easiest flooring types to maintain. Vinyl flooring is normally used in rooms that require extra maintenance as a rule, like kitchens, bathrooms, and mudrooms. Occasional spills are likely to happen in these rooms from ketchup and hairspray to sand and mud being dropped or brought in, proper daily maintenance will need to be performed to keep your vinyl floors looking great.

Vinyl Flooring - Manufactures usually have their own or recommended cleaning products for their vinyl flooring. Once you purchase your flooring be sure to read their recommendations as some cleaners will actually harm the vinyl’s protective coating and or dull the natural sheen of the flooring. General maintenance is a must sweeping, dust mopping or vacuuming should be a daily routine.

Many manufacturers will have a two or three part system for keeping the vinyl flooring looking new. This usually consist of a cleaner a stripper and a refinishing product and they each have recommend times for use make sure to follow their recommendations if you want to sustain that just laid down look.

Normally a cleaner will be used on a weekly basis but can be used more often if necessary. It is typically diluted and then used to mop the floor making sure to repeatedly rinse your mop is a good idea on especially dirty floors.

Strippers are commonly used once a year their main purpose is to remove the soapy build up from your normal cleaning and mopping of the floor which does build up after time giving your floor a dull appearance.

The refinishing product is used to help bring back your floors shine. Refinishing should not be done to often so make sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations or you may not only ruin your finish you may well void your warranty.

With out proper precaution vinyl flooring can be damaged by moving furniture and appliances so use care when doing so. It would be well forth the cost of getting felt type protectors for furnishings which are used in your rooms with vinyl flooring these can be purchase at most any hardware or flooring store. Chairs and other furniture with rollers on them should not be used on a vinyl floor as these will eventually damage your floor over time.

Should your floor become damage by a small cut or tear it is best to repair these immediately to protect from any further damage that may occur. Using a small amount of the manufacturers recommended seam sealer will seal these cuts and tears and protect your floor from further damage. (Seam sealer is used to bond pieces of vinyl together)

Vinyl flooring is an affordable and durable type of flooring as long as you know its limitations. Following these steps will keep your vinyl floor looking great for years, just remember that vinyl flooring does have its limits. Use felt floor protectors or at least some type of protector on all your furnishings, perform regular maintenance, follow the manufacturers’ schedules for your flooring type, and enjoy your vinyl floors for years.
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There are basically two methods of installing carpet on stairs. One is the waterfall method where one piece of carpet covers each riser and tread. The other is the cap and band installation. In this case the cap is a piece of carpet installed over the treads and the band is the piece that will cover the risers. In this article I will show you how to install carpet using the waterfall method. These instructions are for basic stairs and not for spiral stairs which would require additional procedures.

Tools Needed:

Tack strips
Staples or upholstery nails
Measuring Tape
Knee Pads
Knee kicker (check your rental store)
Stair Tool (check your rental store)
Utility knife
Hammer
Safety glasses

Obviously you’ll need to remove all the old carpet. Get rid of the tack strips and don’t try to use the old padding. Make sure any nails and staples are removed and sweep down the area to be carpeted.

Before you get started you’re going to have to figure out how much carpet you’ll need. To calculate the width simply measure across the tread. If your stairs are open on one or both ends make sure to measure under the nosing to where it meets the riser and add it to the total width. Figure the total length of your flight of stairs by measuring the tread and riser. Assuming your going to use carpet pad make sure to add at least 3 inches per stair. If your steps have nosing add one foot to the total flight measurement.

Okay, let’s get started. Apply the tack strip to the stair crotch location. Next you’ll need to tighten the carpet by tucking in the crotch. You can do this by using a knee kicker. It is a tool used to install carpet in small areas and stairs. It consists of a piece of metal tubing with a pin plate attached to it. On the other end it has a padded cushion where you can position your knee to apply pressure to the carpet. You should be able to find one at your local rental store. Simply place the padded end several inches above your knee and add pressure.

This is where you will use the knee kicker:

To attach to the tack strip you need to use the knee kicker to stretch the carpet straight from the center of the tread and hook it to the tack strip located at the crotch. Once the carpet has been hooked to the tack strip you need to firmly attach it by sliding your carpet tool back and forth to compress the pins. Using your utility knife or carpet knife trim as needed. A carpet knife is better as it has two sides and is sharper than a utility knife. Repeat this process on each side of the tread. Before going to the next tread make sure the carpet is smoothed out on the riser and then staple to the stair lip. I would recommend you staple about every 2 inches. Don’t forget to also staple along the edge of the riser.

Make sure to step back and take a look at your work before going on to the next tread. Is the carpet smooth? Did you kick it in evenly? It is also a good time to give your knees and back a rest. If everything looks good the continue onto the next tread. If not you’ll have to pull the carpet off and install it again. Repeat this process until you are finished.

Once finished stand back and admire your work and give yourself a pat on the back. You now have a beautiful looking staircase.
Jerry Holt is a writer for the website Do It Yourself Today. Please go to www.diytoday.net for do it yourself home improvement and carpet tips and advice.

Refinishing a hardwood floor is the best way to restore its original beauty and richness. It is hard work to refinish a hardwood floor and although it is a time consuming process, the steps are fairly simple and you can rent the necessary equipment from a rental store. When it comes to refinishing a hardwood floor, you can enjoy the satisfaction of doing it yourself rather than hiring a professional.

You will need the following equipment:
• drum sander
• edger
• sandpaper in coarse, medium and fine grits
• buffer
• wide brooms
• shop vacuum
• putty knife and scraper
• floor wax or polyurethane finish
• wood stain
• brushes, foam or lamb’s wool applicator
• rags
• ear protection, dust masks, safety goggles

To begin, remove everything from the room, sweep the floor clean and check it thoroughly for any carpet staples or exposed nails. Remove carpet staples with pliers and sink nails with a nailset. Walk across the entire floor to check for squeaks, cracks or any other repairs that need to be undertaken before sanding.

Sanding hardwood floors is a noisy and dusty job. Ensure you take adequate precautions by wearing ear protection, safety goggles and a dust mask. To prevent dust from leaving the room, place rags or towels under doors and over vents, and hang plastic or damp sheets over doorways. When refinishing hardwood floors, remove as little of the surface as is absolutely necessary and sand in the direction of the grain. Load the drum sander with a coarse grit sandpaper to remove the finish. Place the machine along the right hand wall with about 2/3 of the length of the floor in front of you. With the drum raised off the floor, start the motor then walk slowly forward at an even pace and ease the drum to the floor. As you near the wall at the end of the pass, gradually raise the drum off the floor. Never let the drum touch the floor when it is not moving. Practice this first with the machine switched off.

Cover the same path you made on the forward cut by pulling the machine backward and easing the drum to the floor as you begin the backward pass. When you reach your original starting point, raise the drum from the floor. Move the machine approximately 3-4 inches to the left and repeat the forward and backward passes, continuing moving to the left after completing each set of passes. When 2/3 of the room has been sanded, turn the machine in the opposite direction and sand the remaining 1/3 in the same manner. Make sure that these sanding passes overlap the first passes by 2-3 feet, so the two areas are blended together. After completing the first cut with the drum sander, use the edger to sand along the baseboards, up to corners, in closets, and any other areas the drum sander did not reach.

Next, repeat the drum sanding using a medium grit sandpaper. Fill any nail holes, blemishes or cracks, then do the final sanding cut with a fine grit sandpaper. Use the buffer with a fine grit sandpaper to improve the blending of the edged and drum sanded areas.

When drum sanding and edging are completed, hand scrape and then hand sand corners around perimeter edges, doors, and other cased openings. Finally, sweep and vacuum the floor and wipe up all of the dust.

Finishing should be done immediately after sanding is completed. For a natural finish, apply a penetrating seal. Otherwise apply your chosen stain using long, even strokes, going with the grain. Ensure the area is well ventilated. Apply the seal/stain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the stain/penetrating sealer has dried completely, apply the finish with a brush or foam/lamb’s wool applicator, using smooth, even strokes. To protect the finish and add the final touch of beauty, apply a coat of good wax and buff to a satin sheen.

Carpeting is very important as it affects the look and feel of your home. Homes that have carpets as flooring give warmth and vibrancy as well as an aesthetic appeal. The choice of carpet is enormous, with a wide range of colours, materials, designs and textures to choose from. This choice of designs can transform your home and give you an opportunity to make every room unique. Carpets are not cheap; with this in mind you need to have carpets that will last a long time so it’s vitally important that you select the best one for the job and have it fitted correctly the first time.

Once you have chosen the carpet designs that fit your needs, you’ll need to have them fitted. Professional carpet fitters may be the course you decide upon and is the correct decision to take in some cases. However you can of course fit them yourself. Doing it yourself is obviously the cheaper option, but it isn’t recommended if you don’t have the right tools or experience. Carpet fitting isn’t as easy as it appears.

The best way to ensure professional fitting of your carpets is to purchase from an authorised carpet retailer or dealer. Generally speaking, the carpet retailer will employ a fitting staff that is very experienced in fitting carpets and should do a very good job for you.

If the retailer doesn’t offer a fitting service, they will no doubt know of a reputable and experienced carpet fitter. Although using the retailers fitting service can be a bit more expensive, it offers several advantages. Their experience and expertise will show in the finished look and you will be better off in the long run. You also have the peace of mind that comes with the backup that you will get from them if you are not happy with any aspect of the fitting.

On the other hand, if you are looking for lower budget carpet fitting services, then there is the option of hiring independent architects, builders, contractors, or interior designers. If you go this route, you should never forget to see their references, inquire about their experience, ask about where they received their training, and see any certification they may have.

It is also a good idea to visit the homes of others that the fitter has worked on in the past, as this will give you an idea of the quality of their work before hiring them. If this isn’t possible, then you should at least ask to see some photos of their work.

You must remember that although private contractors may offer a lower price for carpet fitting than your retailers service, after service in many cases can be poor. If problems are encountered, you’ll probably find that your options are very limited. If you do choose an independent carpet fitter, you should always insist that the fitter carry out the work to the standard for installation of residential carpets CRI 105.

Your choice of carpet fitter will entirely depend upon your specific needs. If you expect to change your carpet every few years, then you will probably be better off to choose an independent carpet fitter. If you want your carpets to last for a long time, then you should ask for a follow up from your retailer, as this will ensure that you have a stress free experience with the fitting.

No matter whom you choose, make sure that you carpets are power stretched prior to fitting. This is very important in that it ensures that wrinkling and rippling are minimised. And don’t forget to carefully measure your rooms before fitting and thoroughly clean the sub floor.

To avoid dust it is a good idea to vacuum the old carpet before it is removed. Once the new carpet is laid, all the edges should be trimmed and sealed with hardwood. Once the fitting is complete, inspect the carpets to make sure that everything is to your satisfaction, and that you are happy before finishing the deal.

Always remember that no matter how expensive or luxurious your carpets may be, it is the fitting process that makes all the difference to the look of your home. Therefore, it always pays off to spend time, money, and effort when choosing the right fitter for your carpets.
John Hague is a researcher, writer and publisher. He also owns and runs several websites including House and Home Articles at http://piak.info

Be aware that like floors, carpets will receive a lot of abuse over the course of its life. Dust, dirt, stains, spills, pet urine and similar stuff are going to adversely affect the way your carpet looks as well as determine how long it lasts before you have to replace it with an entirely new one. In reality, many of the carpet problems you’ll face are near impossible to avoid. However, that’s not to say that you shouldn’t do anything to keep your carpet clean and looking nice.

You may be worried that it’s going to cost you a lot of money to maintain and clean your carpet. On the contrary, you can make it yourself and save a ton of money in the process.

-Making Your Own Natural Carpet Cleaner

You can make this particular homemade cleaner quite easily. All you need are the following ingredients: baking powder, corn flour, dried bay leaves and potpourri.

In container, mix 1/2lb backing powder with up to 3.5-oz. corn flour. Crumble the dried bay leaves before adding them into the mixture. Add a handful of potpourri to give your natural carpet cleaner a fresh smell. Cover the container and shake the mixture thoroughly.

Apply some of the powder onto the stained area and leave it overnight. Wipe off the powder the next day and then vacuum to make sure no residue remains in the carpet.

-Making Your Own Homemade Carpet Shampoo

To make this particular homemade carpet cleaner, the ingredients you need are: 1/2 cup cleaner liquid (no bleach), 1/2 cup Downy, 1 cup ammonia, and 1 gallon of water. Mix the ingredients together. Scrub the solution over the stained areas of your carpet. Wipe off with a clean, dry cloth. If residues form overnight, vacuum over the area.

-Making Your Own Homemade Spot Remover

You can easily and quickly remove small spots on your carpet with the help of this easy to make homemade spot remover. You need three ingredients, which you should already have in your kitchen: vinegar, water and baking soda.

Mix the vinegar and baking soda. Dilute the vinegar-baking soda solution with some water before applying it on your carpet. Scrub the solution over the spot using a small brush (e.g., old toothbrush). The vinegar works to dissolve the stain while the baking soda works to clean up the stain.
Niv Orlian is an experienced Home Improvement Adviser who writes articles for his Flooring & Carpet Cleaning online guides.

So you just bought your dream subwoofer. Congratulations! Now you’re wondering on exactly where to put that monster woofer you bought. You may be wondering about the different options, whether you want a sealed, ported, or a bandpass subwoofer enclosure. You may have done a little bit of your own research but have come to a confusing conclusion with so many different technical terms. Don’t worry; I’ll summarize the effects and the effectiveness of each one for you without all the technical big words.

Sealed Enclosure

These are generally the smallest of the three. If you have a small or a sports car, I recommend this enclosure for your car. There are pros and cons of course. As mentioned, it is advantageously smaller, allowing you to preserve your precious trunk space. They also allow the subwoofers to produce a highly accurate bass, but with the least amount of “boom” out of the three types of enclosures. This is primarily because the box is airtight, leaving no room for air to escape with the sound waves from the interior of the box. Unfortunately, this restriction does require a much more powerful amplifier and subwoofer combination. Unless you have a high-end set that could handle higher wattage, I do not recommend on getting a sealed enclosure setup.

Ported/Vented Enclosure

Because the ported enclosure requires additional room for the vent, it is typically larger than the sealed boxes. If you’re not too concerned about space, this type is a popular solution for most people. The design is based on the vent with which air is allowed to move much more freely, channeling the sound from the interior and the rear of the enclosure to the outside. This gives it a much more boomy effect with less accurate bass response. With vented enclosures, you do not need as much power coming out of your system since the lack of an airtight box allows your subwoofer to move much more freely and the vents allowing you to hear every bit of sound produced by your subwoofer.

Bandpass Enclosure

Bandpass subwoofer boxes are the largest of the three. This is because the design is based on a number of ports and two main chambers-one for your subwoofer and another for air space within the enclosure to resonate. You could probably imagine the sound produced by this behemoth. It produces the least accurate bass but with the greatest level of “boom”. With this enclosure, you can out-boom anyone on the streets of Los Angeles. But remember that bandpass enclosures require a lot of space, so be prepared to sacrifice a lot of trunk space for your setup. Also be mindful that some subwoofers do not work well in bandpass enclosures, so check your product manual before installing them. Ultimately, bandpass boxes are extremely efficient enclosures and demand much less power than the sealed enclosure. Be sure to have a tight install on a bandpass enclosure since any loose parts will easily rattle and could easily be heard on a bandpass setup.

Other Details on Subwoofer Boxes

There are also a few other things to keep in mind when you are deciding between different subwoofer boxes. Most subwoofer enclosures now are constructed using MDF, or Medium Density Fiberboard, these are excellent for enclosures so be sure you’re buying MDF construction boxes and not cheap plastic or plywood. Fiberboard (even if it says medium density) is much denser than any other material so it does not rattle and could withstand very high temperatures. Particle boards are much lighter material and do not bond as tightly as fiberboard and would therefore not be suitable for harsh environments.

Cosmetically, there are usually two options for you to get-a carpet exterior or a vinyl/paint finish. Carpet will protect the exterior from getting scratched and usually matches the trunk color pretty well (gray, black, and tan). Paint or vinyl finish tend to show exterior blemishes much easier than carpeting, but cleaning them is also much easier-especially valuable if you are installing a non-trunk subwoofer enclosure install.

How many subwoofers in a box? This depends on obviously how much money and space you have. Don’t buy two when you can buy one that could produce the power of two. This will potentially save you money and space. If you can help it, do not settle for a set of two cheap ones when you can buy one good one. Yes, two will help add more power and sound, but it sacrifices sound quality for volume and boom.

I hope this short summary have helped you in your decision making process. At the end of the day, it is truly up to you to research your subwoofer and find the best solution for your system. Happy hunting!
For more information about subwoofer boxes, please visit: Subwoofer Box - Bandpass Sub Boxes - Sealed Subwoofer Box

Your car system that you bought sometime back may seem outdated in a couple of years due to technological improvement and new developments and improved versions that keep coming into the market. To try and keep up with the trend is difficult but you can improve some parts of your car stereo and in that way, bit by bit, keep up with the pace. Here we will discuss on how to improve your car stereo with new speakers.

First of all you need to understand how a speaker works. The speakers can create the sound it produces by making a diaphragm move in and out, and these diaphragms are in the shape of a cone. The most common kind of material used in these cones is paper and paper cones are one of the most popular materials for decades now. They are popular due to the following reasons.

- They are light weighted
- They are rigid
- They are economical
- They are non-resonant
- Lastly they can produce quality sound

Recently, the market has seen other kinds of speakers as well and their cones are made of some plastic type material called the polypropylene. These cones too have all the advantages a paper cone has and their unique selling point is their immunity to humidity and water and they are hard to damage. Understanding these speaker types will give you an idea on how to improve your stereo with new speakers.

Again when we talk about speakers as a whole, there are many kinds of them to woo potential consumers. Knowing how to improve your car stereo new speakers you need to understand that music itself is made up of a wide range of frequencies. There is no one size of any speaker that can reproduce the total frequencies at best. Therefore, to be able to reproduce all the frequencies you will have to use a combination of speaker cones, each specializing in reproducing different range of frequencies.

The most common arrangement is a two-way speaker. In other words this means that it has a midrange or a woofer for the mid and low sounds and a tweeter for the highs.

Another way of how to improve your car stereo with new speakers is by using the largest type of speakers that would reproduce the best sound are the 6 inches X 9 inches oval speakers. Remember here the subwoofers are not included. This type of speakers will incorporate three and sometimes even four cones.

You should know how to improve your car stereo with new speakers for optimum simply by correct placement of each different driver. The two-way speakers are not usually mounted on the same frame. Sometimes they are separate and therefore the tweeter can be place higher up, closer to your ears for better sounding system. You should know that the bass sound is non-directional, in other words, you cannot tell where it is coming from. Whereas the high and midrange frequencies are highly directional and your ears will be able to pinpoint as to in which angle the sound is coming from. Therefore, placing them inside your door panel down by your feet is not a good idea.

Components speakers which includes the high and midrange frequencies, lets the speaker cone that handles highly directional sounds, which is the tweeter to be place higher on the door or almost anywhere else. Therefore the positive output on how to improve your car stereo with new speakers will also be determined by the placement of your speakers.
Victor Epand is an expert consultant for used DVDs, used movies, and used car stereos. You can find the best marketplace for used DVDs, used movies, and used car stereos at these sites for DVD, VCD, magnetic tape, used movies, and diaphragm, two-way speaker, midrange, tweeter, woofer.

Most car manufacturers today offer an iPod connection as a standard option in their post 2006 vehicles. If you do not know whether you have this option just look at your radio deck in your car, the standard connection is an auxiliary input. This would be labeled as ‘aux’. If you have this input you can purchase an auxiliary cable that would run from your iPod’s headset connector to the auxiliary input on the radio deck. From there it’s simply a matter of selecting the aux channel from the radio.

For radio decks that do not have this feature there are several options to connect your iPod:

* If you have a cassette player you can purchase a cassette adaptor. This is essentially a typical cassette with a wire attached which is hooked up to the iPod’s headset jack. The sound quality is a little sub par but it remains clear enough. The cost of an adaptor is generally around $15.

* FM transmitters are adaptors that connect to your iPod from the headset jack and broadcast the music to an available FM radio station. This solution works particularly well in areas where there are not too many radio stations. FM iPod transmitters are not recommended for more urban areas due to the large number of radio stations, and overlapping between stations. They work great for road trips on open roads. The typical cost ranges between $20-$50.

* CD deck with built-in aux input. This is the most cost effective way of installing an iPod in your car without sacrificing quality. CD decks can range anywhere between $50-$1000, the difference being the features and sound quality of the unit. If your goal is simply to connect your iPod a basic model will be more than enough. The sound quality will be crystal clear as though you were listening to a CD in your car.

* Finally you can also have your car dealer, or a third party dealer, hard wire your iPod to your existing radio. This entails running a wire from the back of your radio and having it come out of the glove box compartment. Depending on your vehicle if you have radio controls on the steering wheel you will also be able to control the iPod’s controls through the steering wheel. On average the cost will be around $150-$200.
http://www.TheiPodOutlet.com is your #1 resource website for all your iPod information. Find the best deals on every iPod model and accessories, read the latest news and rumors, find out detailed specs for every iPod ever released and more.