How To Archive of Useless information - corroboratory.com

We know custom made usually goes with expensive and what better time to want to show off and impress than your wedding. In order to keep this impressive, you must never tell anyone that in fact you made it yourself.

Remember

“custom” made = oohh, girl, the bride looks ravishing!

“home” made = that scandalous ho must be kidding.

Now there are a few dilemas here, making a fabulous, yet multpurpose wedding gown that can take you from walking down the aisle 1 minute and ready to be put into stirrups or even a c-section the next, without missing a musical beat and without any fuss of undressing. Plus, we want to keep the maternity wedding gown fairly simple and easy to sew.

I would also like to mention that this project can be done in under 3 hours and 20 bucks leaving you plenty of time and money to shop for accessories.

materials:

3 yards of the shiniest white satin you can find (rednecks can substitute flannel here, but it doesn’t drape as nicely)

elastic, enough to go around your chest 1 time and your belly twice.

trim or ribbon, shinier that the satin, silver is nice, gold is better and rhinestones are De Bomb. (rednecks may substitute printed ribbon with the confederate flag, a ford truck, a moose head or anything they wish for the rhinestones.)

Now, standing up, hold the top of the material to your chest, and measure how much needs to be cut off from the bottom. Remember to leave an extra foot at the bottom for mistakes and seams. Before you chop the shiny fabric off, make sure you are satisfied with the length. For an added dash of maternity sexiness, you can cut it a bit shorter to show more leg.

Fold over the top 2 inches of fabric across the entire topside of material to create a flap that is wide enough to fit your elastic. put your elastic in the flap and sew the flap down making sure to not sew over the elastic since it should move. Basically, this is just like making a curtain with a flap for the curtain rod.

** Timesaving tip** If you have a white, shiney curtain, just go ahead and use that the top is already sewn for you!

Now for the bottom. Cut the fabric straight up from the bottom to give you a fabulous slit to show off your legs, also, it helps with walking. Be sure to cut high enough to tease your future father-in-laws imagination, but not too high as to alienate the wife and your future Mum. You may wanna practice on a Barbie here before you hack it for real.

You are now ready to sew up the back. Sew the 2 sides together straight up the back to get a snug fit in the rear.

*** style tip*** your booty is as big as ever

show it off by making the dress a bit tighter in the hips.

Now the tricky part, again, you may need to practice on the Barbie a few times before attempting.

Put on the dress, now you must mark where the cut out goes, make the midriff cutoff as small or as large as you like, remember, the larger the cutout, the more belly skin will be shown and the easier medical access will be to your belly, just in case you do go into labor during the ceremony and a c-section is needed. also, mark the dress top if you would like to take it in a bit at this point.

Cut the middle section out of the dress, but DO NOT dispose of the fabric. fold the oval piece of fabric in 1/2 and cut in the middle to make 2 1/2 ovals. Those will make some stunning cuffs. Sew a flap, just like the cleavage part of the dress around the entire midriff cutout, insert elastic and tighten for some fab ruffles to accentuate your waistline.

To finish off the dress, sew the trim onto all the cut edges for that “polished” look. Remember, this is custom made so you can not have any frayed edges, make sure the trim covers them all. Use 2 rows if you must, the shinier, the better.

To finish your cuffs, use the same method of inserting ribbon into a sewn flap as you did with the elastic. String in the ribbon and tie in a bow around wrist.

No worries, this fabulously stylish design works for just about any size woman and accommodates a few extra inches in the waistline perfectly.

Below is slightly sexier version of the ghetto fab wedding gown

Anyone who has children old enough to chew gum has had to find out the hard way how that it sticks to hair, carpets, clothing, the inside of your dryer or some other place that you wouldn’t want gum. If you find yourself with gum stuck in your carpet there are several ways to remove this mess without ruining your carpet.

One popular way is by using a bag of ice to freeze the gum and then peel it neatly out of the carpet. This can be done by placing the ice on the gum for fifteen minutes or so to freeze it solid then the gum should peel away from the fibers. This might be a good method to start with since you’re not introducing any new liquids or products to the carpet to clean the gum from it.

A faster way to freeze the gum and remove it from your carpet is by using a can of air meant to clean your electronics. These cans are meant to be used right side up, but if you shake them or turn them upside down you will find they become cold. Turning the can upside down while spraying the gum will spray a shot of liquid onto the gum that freezes it instantly. Once the gum is frozen you can whack it with whatever is close by (hammer, umbrella handle, broom or whatever) so that it shatters into pieces and then you can vacuum it up or pick up the pieces.

Goo-Gone is a product you can purchase to remove gum and other sticky substances from your carpet and other furnishings. This is an oily product that cuts through the gum in no time. The stickiness is completely removed with a little rubbing.

If you don’t have any of these products and ice isn’t working for you, there is always peanut butter or shortening. These work on hair and on carpets. Putting a little oil in the gum and rubbing it in will help to break up the elasticity in the gum and it removes it. If you use this method you have to clean the area well immediately after getting the gum out of the carpet. Baby oil, vegetable oil, butter and any other oily substance works just as well. On the downside, this can also stain the carpet with the oils involved, so be very careful and make sure to test this in an inconspicuous area before you begin. Trading gum for an oil stain isn’t very helpful.

Some people have good results with steam. Using a high pressure steam cleaner can remove the gum and any stain that it might leave. If you are using a rented steam cleaner you may have to go over the area many times and in the end bend down and use your fingers to pick up the gum once it is loosened.

Scrubbing with multipurpose cleaners or a spray foam carpet cleaner can also work. Be careful when scrubbing, you don’t want to damage the carpet’s fibers when you are removing the gum.

Before trying any of these methods, make sure that the products you have chosen to use won’t damage the carpet. Test them on an inconspicuous area to find out if they will stain or damage the carpet fibre before going straight for the gum. Every carpet is different and will react differently to certain products. Take your time and be patient when trying to get the gum out, rushing will only make the mess bigger.
Visit us for more information on dry carpet cleaner machine, chemical carpet cleaning and dry carpet cleaning machine

“There have been numerous times where as a black mold specialist, people tell me I used bleach to clean this black mold and it now comes back. So many of us seem to never be able to get rid of soap scum and black mold. ”

A word of caution:

Bleach is not the answer for cleaning black mold. While some misinterpret natural cleaning products and use bleach, they are simply in for some trouble. The truth is bleach will remove the black mold. Although, it will only remove this mold temporarily because of the DNA of the black mold is not been destroyed and that is just the beginning..

Besides cleaning the black mold you really must focus on preventing the mold from coming back. Mold and mildew are pretty toxic, thus natural cleaning products or “Green” products are being formulated to solve these problems with out needing to evacuate your home while cleaning it.

Believe it or not, most natural cleaning products are not really that strong. This is the challenge of natural cleaning products. But before I jump into details let me explain what happens when you do get the right solution that can remove mold and prevent in one single solution.

As you probably know Green cleaning products are an excellent alternative to a safe environment. What happens with powerful natural cleaning products is applying a liquid solution that can settle on the surface of the problematic area and at the same time destroy the DNA makeup of the mold. Then you can apply that same solution over the area again to use the solution as a safe shield to cover the surface and prevent future amplification. Since the solution is a natural cleaning solution you have the luxury of using it as a maintenance product in the home, not harming you, your children, or your pets.

Bottom line is you need to understand natural cleaning products and be sure to use what professionals are using to clean black mold and mildew. Most contractors may be using the wrong solution or too harsh of a chemical thus that is why you pay them the dollars needed to get the job done correctly.

At the moment you can research some natural cleaning products to help you in your battle with black mold and janitorial cleaning. Better yet you can try a product with a full guarantee. If the problem is black mold then be sure to attack the source, break up the DNA, and use a prevention method. This is truly the only way to rid your self of black mold. Always try to use green cleaning products when in your home so you do not pose a risk with your health and if the mold problem is large do look into a professional to consult with.
Discover a natural cleaning products for black mold that kills and prevents future breakouts of black mold by changing the DNA make up of the mold.
Educate yourself on black mold so you are safe from the spores creeping up on you.

Don’t waste time crying over spilled milk!

Get to work quickly to blot up the excess and try to prevent it from being absorbed into the fabric and resulting in a stain.

If milk, milkshakes or ice cream is spilled on the carpet or furniture, grab some paper towels or very absorbent soft cotton rag. Blot up any that is still on the surface, and then press the paper towels or rags against it several times to bring out as much moisture as possible.

Any milk remaining in the material will spoil and you’ll be stuck with a foul odor for months so it’s important to act as soon as possible.

Keep in mind that milk, milk shakes and ice cream are organic and do not react favorably to cleansing agents with chemicals that may “cook” the milk right into the material you are trying to remove it from.

After you’ve blotted up as much as possible, grab a household sponge and wet it with clean, cold water. Apply the wet sponge over and over to the still wet stain, alternating with a clean paper towel.

Tips For Removing Milk Stains From Furniture

If the stained area is on a sofa or couch, it’s pretty difficult to get to the bottom of it. You can try using a wet-dry shop vacuum to remove as much moisture as possible from the padding. If this sounds like it might work (we don’t know what your situation is), flood the spot with clean cold water and allow it to penetrate for a few seconds - you be the judge. Then use the shop vacuum and suck up as much of the moisture as possible. Some steam cleaners also have wands or tools for upholstery. It’s worth a try to fill the reservoir with a cleaning solution or just plain cold water and go over the entire surface of the sofa, chair or carpet.

If the milk has spilled onto a scatter or throw rug, there’s not much of a problem unless the rug is too big to go into your washer or not made of washable material. However, in this case, we will assume you can throw the rug into the clothes washer. Fill the tub with cold water, soak for five or ten minutes, add detergent and allow it to go through a cycle. When the cycle is complete, take the rug out and examine it for staining. If it looks clean, go ahead and dry it as you normally would do.

Removing Ice Cream And Milkshake Stains

If the spill is from a milkshake or melted ice cream, it’s even more important to get at it right away with cold water. The sugar in the drink and ice cream makes a nasty, sticky mess and if it’s chocolate, it’s even worse.

Remember, milk is an organic product. Organic stains respond well to organic cleaners and brighteners. I often take garments out of the washer and don’t put them into the dryer at all. I hang them outdoors where the sun can draw the stain out and dry the material at the same time.

If the stain is stubborn, you may also sprinkle a little lemon juice on the stain while the fabric is still wet. Then go ahead and lay it where the sun can reach it. The lemon juice and sun together will lighten and brighten most organic stains unless they are old or have already been treated with a chemical that has cooked it into the fabric.

Another nice thing about using lemon juice is the fact that it acts as a nice deodorizer at the same time. Removing and Treating Sour Milk Odors

Speaking of deodorizer, another method that works well in some cases is using baking soda.

1. Blot excess milk with a sponge or paper towel.

2. Sprinkle baking powder on the stained area.

3. Using a small spray bottle of water, lightly mist the baking powder making sure it absorbs the water.

4. Allow the wet baking powder to dry overnight.

5. When it has completely dried, scrape off the excess; using a small brush, give it a light brushing to loosen the rest of the baking soda.

6. Vacuum the whole area.

7. If the stain remains, treat with lemon juice.

8. Allow the lemon juice to remain for about 15 minutes.

9. Then spray with water and blot with a paper towel

Wax can easily get into your carpet. Those times when you light up candles for birthdays, romantic dinners, anniversaries, special get-togethers and a host of other occasions are times when your carpets become victim to wax. Unless you know how to remove candle wax from carpet each time, don’t expect your carpet to remain looking nice and new.

You can use two techniques to remove wax from carpets: the icing technique and the scraping technique.

The Icing Technique

It can be a fun activity although I wouldn’t advice you take this on as hobby. For the icing technique, you’ll have to completed freeze the wax. As soon as you see wax on your carpet, take some ice cubes, put them in a plastic bag and place them over the wax. The ice cubes will make the wax harden and become even more solid.

After a few minutes, you can pick open the hardened wax with a blunt object. Do this to loosen up the wax. Next, vacuum over the carpet, making sure that waxy debris is removed from the carpet. If the vacuum doesn’t completely take off the wax, you can scrape the remaining wax with a blunt object. Do not use scissors, knives or sharp objects as they can damage the carpet fiber.

The Hot Iron Technique

You’ll need the following: alcohol, clean rags, rolls of paper, irons, sponges and putty knife. First, begin scraping off the bigger chunks of wax on your carpet. Next, place a sheet of paper over the remaining wax on the carpet. Gently sweep a hot iron across the paper. The wax should melt and attach itself onto the paper. Gently lift the paper. If you see a stain on the carpet, dab some alcohol on the spot and the stain should be gone.

Home floor cleaning is probably on your mind if you’ve recently moved into a new home with hardwood floors, or renovated your existing home’s floors. Unlike carpeting, which is simple to clean and maintain, hardwood floors do require a bit more care. Fortunately, once you learn how to properly maintain your hardwood floors you will be able to look forward to years of easy care with stunning results.

The first thing you will need to do before cleaning is to figure out what kind of floor you have. If you are lucky to have a new sealed floor, it is probably a surface sealed floor which requires relatively little care. If your floor is older, it is probably a penetrating seal treated floor. This type of floor needs more involved care with waxes and oils.

For cleaning hardwood floors, in the case of a surface sealed floor, you merely need to mop using a product recommended by your flooring manufacturer. Products like Oil Soap solution (which don’t generally contain oil) are usually safe. A damp mop and a little soap are often also safe for this type of floor. Make sure to dry the floor completely when you’re done, since sitting water can damage a surface sealed floor.

If you have a penetrating seal treated floor, you will not be able to mop with water-based products. Instead, for routine cleanings, you can simply sweep or vacuum your floor. Every once in a while, for a deeper cleaning, you will need to strip the old wax coating and apply a new one. You can do this once or twice a year, if you like.

Use a stripper, and follow the manufacturer’s directions. Allow the hardwood floor to dry and try to ensure proper ventilation. Then purchase a product for waxing your floor that is approved by your floor manufacturer. Follow directions and apply one or two coats, or as many as desired.

The final - and most important - step is applying a hardwood floor buffer. This process is necessary to allow the wax to properly sink in and seal the floor, as well as to achieve a beautiful shine. Most people opt to rent or purchase a hardwood floor buffer machine, since it makes the job much easier. You may be interested in knowing that by purchasing the hardwood floor buffer machine, it will pay for itself after just three to four cleanings!
Visit us for more information on how to install hardwood floors, tips for refinishing wooden floors and how to install bamboo hardwood floors.

Hardwood floor scratches are inevitable. At some point, scratches will happen. If you have hardwood flooring, it’s important that you learn how to do simple scratch repairs yourself. However, before you start fixing any scratches, you’ll need to learn how to differentiate between scratches and gouges on your hardwood floor.

A scratch is typically a visible, but not deep, marking on your hardwood floor’s surface. Hardwood floor scratches can be caused by dragging furniture across the floor or by glass that has fallen and cut the surface of the floor. A gouge, however, is much deeper than a scratch. Think of a gouge as a “flesh wound” a hardwood floor could sustain.

Dealing with a scratch is much different than dealing with a. For instance, it’s useless to apply hardwood floor scratch remover on gouges.

You’ll need to be sure that you really are dealing with a scratch instead of a gouge before you can initiate any kind of scratch repair work. Between scratches and gouges, scratches on hardwood floors are much more common. It’s near impossible to keep hardwood floors from getting scratches.

Moving pieces of furniture across or dropping sharp objects like glass are not the only things that can cause scratches. You may be causing scratches on your hardwood floor when you sweep it with a broom with not-so-soft bristles or you wipe off spills using a hard piece of cloth.

Again, scratches are nearly impossible to avoid, so the best thing you can do is learn how to deal with the scratches, like learning how to do simple scratch repairs. It’s pretty simple; you don’t have to hire a professional to do it for you.

Follow these steps:

1. Using a fine steel wool or sandpaper, rough up the scratched area.

2. Rub the whole length of the scratch. Cover both margins.

3. Make sure to rub in the direction of the wood grain, or rub in a circular motion to avoid damaging the wood and floor finish too much.

3. Dampen a soft cloth with mineral spirits. Use the soft cloth to wipe off any wood and dust particles on the scratched area of the floor.

4. Let the solution dry up on the floor. Depending on how big the scratch is, the scratch removal solution and how much of it you use, drying time may take from several minutes up to a few hours.

5. Take a fine paintbrush, dip it in the finish originally used on the floor and brush it across the scratched area. Wipe with a soft cloth.

6. Be careful and gentle when you brush in the finish onto the scratch. Too much or too little and the area will look much different from the rest of the hardwood floor. Brush in just enough finish so that it looks almost the same as the rest.

7. Give the new finish some time to dry. This may take between 30 minutes to a few hours.

If you followed the directions carefully, the scratch on your hardwood floor should be gone.

Refinishing a hardwood floor is the best way to restore its original beauty and richness. It is hard work to refinish a hardwood floor and although it is a time consuming process, the steps are fairly simple and you can rent the necessary equipment from a rental store. When it comes to refinishing a hardwood floor, you can enjoy the satisfaction of doing it yourself rather than hiring a professional.

You will need the following equipment:
• drum sander
• edger
• sandpaper in coarse, medium and fine grits
• buffer
• wide brooms
• shop vacuum
• putty knife and scraper
• floor wax or polyurethane finish
• wood stain
• brushes, foam or lamb’s wool applicator
• rags
• ear protection, dust masks, safety goggles

To begin, remove everything from the room, sweep the floor clean and check it thoroughly for any carpet staples or exposed nails. Remove carpet staples with pliers and sink nails with a nailset. Walk across the entire floor to check for squeaks, cracks or any other repairs that need to be undertaken before sanding.

Sanding hardwood floors is a noisy and dusty job. Ensure you take adequate precautions by wearing ear protection, safety goggles and a dust mask. To prevent dust from leaving the room, place rags or towels under doors and over vents, and hang plastic or damp sheets over doorways. When refinishing hardwood floors, remove as little of the surface as is absolutely necessary and sand in the direction of the grain. Load the drum sander with a coarse grit sandpaper to remove the finish. Place the machine along the right hand wall with about 2/3 of the length of the floor in front of you. With the drum raised off the floor, start the motor then walk slowly forward at an even pace and ease the drum to the floor. As you near the wall at the end of the pass, gradually raise the drum off the floor. Never let the drum touch the floor when it is not moving. Practice this first with the machine switched off.

Cover the same path you made on the forward cut by pulling the machine backward and easing the drum to the floor as you begin the backward pass. When you reach your original starting point, raise the drum from the floor. Move the machine approximately 3-4 inches to the left and repeat the forward and backward passes, continuing moving to the left after completing each set of passes. When 2/3 of the room has been sanded, turn the machine in the opposite direction and sand the remaining 1/3 in the same manner. Make sure that these sanding passes overlap the first passes by 2-3 feet, so the two areas are blended together. After completing the first cut with the drum sander, use the edger to sand along the baseboards, up to corners, in closets, and any other areas the drum sander did not reach.

Next, repeat the drum sanding using a medium grit sandpaper. Fill any nail holes, blemishes or cracks, then do the final sanding cut with a fine grit sandpaper. Use the buffer with a fine grit sandpaper to improve the blending of the edged and drum sanded areas.

When drum sanding and edging are completed, hand scrape and then hand sand corners around perimeter edges, doors, and other cased openings. Finally, sweep and vacuum the floor and wipe up all of the dust.

Finishing should be done immediately after sanding is completed. For a natural finish, apply a penetrating seal. Otherwise apply your chosen stain using long, even strokes, going with the grain. Ensure the area is well ventilated. Apply the seal/stain according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the stain/penetrating sealer has dried completely, apply the finish with a brush or foam/lamb’s wool applicator, using smooth, even strokes. To protect the finish and add the final touch of beauty, apply a coat of good wax and buff to a satin sheen.

Carpeting is very important as it affects the look and feel of your home. Homes that have carpets as flooring give warmth and vibrancy as well as an aesthetic appeal. The choice of carpet is enormous, with a wide range of colours, materials, designs and textures to choose from. This choice of designs can transform your home and give you an opportunity to make every room unique. Carpets are not cheap; with this in mind you need to have carpets that will last a long time so it’s vitally important that you select the best one for the job and have it fitted correctly the first time.

Once you have chosen the carpet designs that fit your needs, you’ll need to have them fitted. Professional carpet fitters may be the course you decide upon and is the correct decision to take in some cases. However you can of course fit them yourself. Doing it yourself is obviously the cheaper option, but it isn’t recommended if you don’t have the right tools or experience. Carpet fitting isn’t as easy as it appears.

The best way to ensure professional fitting of your carpets is to purchase from an authorised carpet retailer or dealer. Generally speaking, the carpet retailer will employ a fitting staff that is very experienced in fitting carpets and should do a very good job for you.

If the retailer doesn’t offer a fitting service, they will no doubt know of a reputable and experienced carpet fitter. Although using the retailers fitting service can be a bit more expensive, it offers several advantages. Their experience and expertise will show in the finished look and you will be better off in the long run. You also have the peace of mind that comes with the backup that you will get from them if you are not happy with any aspect of the fitting.

On the other hand, if you are looking for lower budget carpet fitting services, then there is the option of hiring independent architects, builders, contractors, or interior designers. If you go this route, you should never forget to see their references, inquire about their experience, ask about where they received their training, and see any certification they may have.

It is also a good idea to visit the homes of others that the fitter has worked on in the past, as this will give you an idea of the quality of their work before hiring them. If this isn’t possible, then you should at least ask to see some photos of their work.

You must remember that although private contractors may offer a lower price for carpet fitting than your retailers service, after service in many cases can be poor. If problems are encountered, you’ll probably find that your options are very limited. If you do choose an independent carpet fitter, you should always insist that the fitter carry out the work to the standard for installation of residential carpets CRI 105.

Your choice of carpet fitter will entirely depend upon your specific needs. If you expect to change your carpet every few years, then you will probably be better off to choose an independent carpet fitter. If you want your carpets to last for a long time, then you should ask for a follow up from your retailer, as this will ensure that you have a stress free experience with the fitting.

No matter whom you choose, make sure that you carpets are power stretched prior to fitting. This is very important in that it ensures that wrinkling and rippling are minimised. And don’t forget to carefully measure your rooms before fitting and thoroughly clean the sub floor.

To avoid dust it is a good idea to vacuum the old carpet before it is removed. Once the new carpet is laid, all the edges should be trimmed and sealed with hardwood. Once the fitting is complete, inspect the carpets to make sure that everything is to your satisfaction, and that you are happy before finishing the deal.

Always remember that no matter how expensive or luxurious your carpets may be, it is the fitting process that makes all the difference to the look of your home. Therefore, it always pays off to spend time, money, and effort when choosing the right fitter for your carpets.
John Hague is a researcher, writer and publisher. He also owns and runs several websites including House and Home Articles at http://piak.info

Be aware that like floors, carpets will receive a lot of abuse over the course of its life. Dust, dirt, stains, spills, pet urine and similar stuff are going to adversely affect the way your carpet looks as well as determine how long it lasts before you have to replace it with an entirely new one. In reality, many of the carpet problems you’ll face are near impossible to avoid. However, that’s not to say that you shouldn’t do anything to keep your carpet clean and looking nice.

You may be worried that it’s going to cost you a lot of money to maintain and clean your carpet. On the contrary, you can make it yourself and save a ton of money in the process.

-Making Your Own Natural Carpet Cleaner

You can make this particular homemade cleaner quite easily. All you need are the following ingredients: baking powder, corn flour, dried bay leaves and potpourri.

In container, mix 1/2lb backing powder with up to 3.5-oz. corn flour. Crumble the dried bay leaves before adding them into the mixture. Add a handful of potpourri to give your natural carpet cleaner a fresh smell. Cover the container and shake the mixture thoroughly.

Apply some of the powder onto the stained area and leave it overnight. Wipe off the powder the next day and then vacuum to make sure no residue remains in the carpet.

-Making Your Own Homemade Carpet Shampoo

To make this particular homemade carpet cleaner, the ingredients you need are: 1/2 cup cleaner liquid (no bleach), 1/2 cup Downy, 1 cup ammonia, and 1 gallon of water. Mix the ingredients together. Scrub the solution over the stained areas of your carpet. Wipe off with a clean, dry cloth. If residues form overnight, vacuum over the area.

-Making Your Own Homemade Spot Remover

You can easily and quickly remove small spots on your carpet with the help of this easy to make homemade spot remover. You need three ingredients, which you should already have in your kitchen: vinegar, water and baking soda.

Mix the vinegar and baking soda. Dilute the vinegar-baking soda solution with some water before applying it on your carpet. Scrub the solution over the spot using a small brush (e.g., old toothbrush). The vinegar works to dissolve the stain while the baking soda works to clean up the stain.
Niv Orlian is an experienced Home Improvement Adviser who writes articles for his Flooring & Carpet Cleaning online guides.